Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
